Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and travelers equally praising its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, Unesco recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a exclusive list of world cities and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it becomes part of a international community of cities cities across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "demonstrates its centuries-old culinary traditions and vibrant gastronomic culture," as noted by a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of seventy urban centers internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this historic city is little surprise to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, lively, and diverse city – the capital of India's largest state – is now in the limelight for what has consistently defined its heart: an immense love for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a continued discussion from morning until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and taken to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of culinary innovations, merging Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. The story goes that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights seasonal produce but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on countless corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – lesser-known delights that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a no-frills joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and demanding. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but note that their children are unwilling to learn the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will encourage more people around the world to learn these narratives and experience the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
